St Kitts – also known as St Christopher –Our Lucky Mojo?

St Kitts – formally known as St Christopher Island – is where we have been docked for the past week. I like this description of St Christopher – the patron saint from Lucky Mojo  (http://www.luckymojo.com/saintchristopher.html) - rather than the Wikipedia definition and was so tickled with it – I wanted to include it in my blog. I am not Catholic – I’m Episcopal – or as Ann Miller says: “Light Catholic”!!!

 

                                   SAINT CHRISTOPHER

CATHOLIC PATRON SAINT OF TRAVEL SAFETY 

The one-time Catholic patron saint of travelers, Saint Christopher -- whose name means "Christ carrier" -- is not mentioned in the Bible. While there may have been a 3rd century Greek martyr named Christopher, the story told of him is now generally acknowledged to be a 12th century addendum to the Christian canon. Christopher is typically depicted as a tall, middle-aged, bearded man with a staff who wades across a river carrying the Christ child on his shoulders. As the story goes, the extremely robust Christopher devoted his life to carrying people across an otherwise unfordable stream. One day a little child appeared before him and asked to be carried across. To Christopher's surprise, as he forded the river, the child steadily increased in weight until Christopher found his tiny burden so heavy that it was almost impossible to bear. When he asked the holy babe why he weighed so much, the child replied that he carried the world's sins upon his shoulders. As a reward for his service, Christopher's staff was miraculously transformed into a living tree, and Christopher himself became the Patron Saint of travelers.

Christopher was a widely popular saint, and was especially revered by mariners, ferrymen, and travelers. His feast day was July 25th, except in Greece, where it was celebrated on March 9th. In modern times a major center of his cult was in Italy and among Italian-Americans, a fact that did not stop the Vatican from de-canonizing him during a late 20th century purge of the list of saints. Saint Christopher medals and holy cards are more difficult to find now that his status has been downgraded to that of a mere legend, but they are still being manufactured and many Mexican and Italian Catholics still believe that his image is the best amulet to carry in one's wallet, wear on a necklace while on a journey, or hang from the rear view mirror attachment of one's car. The enamel and silver Saint Christopher medal shown here dates from the 1930s.

We are currently at Port Zante Marina just east of the cruise ship dock and get to see the throngs of passengers disembarking and scattering about the town in search of finding a day’s enjoyment. We hear the loud horn blast in the early evening – warning cruisers it’s time to return to the ship. 

We are within walking distance to the main town of Basseterre and all the local shops, so we haven’t rented a car and have mostly been hanging locally. There are three grocery stores just three minutes away, plus numerous other shops and eateries.

We arrived slowly – after ten engine breakdowns during the passage – on Friday, June 7^th.  We had hopes of getting help with our engine problem from the most qualified engineer in town, David Ridsdale-Saw, owner of Indigo Yachts. Per Caribbean custom he doesn’t work on the week-end – so we were anxiously awaiting Monday – and his expertise at troubleshooting our difficulty with our fuel problem.

Monday came and went…..Tuesday came and went….Wednesday we scoured the docks hoping for a glimpse of him, talked to the people whose boat he was working on, talked to his workmen, e-mailed him and borrowed a phone to call him (no answer). In general we tried to do everything we knew of to get in touch once again (we had a five minute conversation with him on our Friday arrival – with a plan laid for Monday) – to no avail.

A glimpse of the school yard

We tried to get our minds off  his lack of communication, by taking a huge 20 mile hike to the Industrial section of town, to look for an air compressor or an adaptor to fit our bicycle pump – so we could re-inflate our sagging fenders. Our boat is parallel the dock – port side to – and the easterly trade winds were really pushing our boat into the concrete pier. We covered every inch of town – went into a dozen stores – with no luck at finding anything to help our plight. Finally we were directed to a “tyre” store (that's how they spell it here) almost opposite our marina – and we hand- carried our fender to them and they re-inflated it – no charge! We have found the people here very friendly and we are thankful for all the help we have received. We got back to the boat and realized that we had a small electric compressor that we used to inflate our air mattress and Cap fiddled with the adaptor and got it converted to work on our fenders, so that we could take care of that ourselves now. We readjusted the dock lines – making a better spring line configuration – and Voila! - Much less movement of the boat against the dock. The good part of that long exercise was that we found a fabulous restaurant on the main drag called El Fredo and stopped in on the way back to the dock for a late lunch and Carib. I had  creole shrimp and Cap had garlic shrimp and it was good!

 

Lavinia

We were so fortunate to actually know someone personally here in St Kitts. Pia - our previous Lido Key neighbor –has a daughter attending Veterinary School here in St Kitts. Her name is Sara and she’s a beautiful 21 year old Swede. She was happy to make the trip to our boat and we shared a great evening together. We had Champagne and my Salmon Pasta and salad and spent hours catching up. She vowed to keep in touch and has. We have plans to meet up again Friday for an excursion to Mr. X’s Shiggidy Shack – a neat place on the beach that Cap and I had visited on a previous trip years back. Sara plays volleyball there and so it should make for a fun evening.
 

Love riding on the Seas!

So, here we are – Thursday – and FINALLY! - A visit from David and his technician Carl. They all got down in the “Hole” (engine room) and looked over the set up. David will come up with something – I’m praying. Cap is thinking of adding a “Day Tank” to the whole set-up – therefore by-passing the demand on the four other tanks, and hopefully solving the problem. There’s much work to be done and on “Caribbean Time” we are worried we will run out of time for our planned arrival date of July 1^st with Crews Inn, in Chaguaramas, Trinidad.to skirt the hurricane zone Even travelling non-stop, it’s impossible – it’s over 400 nm! So Cap goes about making alternate arrangements – crossing the “i’s and dotting the t’s” – he is extremely thorough with our little ship and his Captain duties. He’s always thinking of the next step. And he’s hopeful that the next step will be to continue the journey to Trinidad. But we are patient. We’ve learned that workmen in the Caribbean are just not like in the US – and you kind of have to go with their flow – or you just get frustrated.  We’re okay with that. We just want to get our Partners fixed and dependable again. We love the cruising life and can’t imagine being back on land again – even after all this! We can’t imagine sitting on a rocking chair on the porch, rather than sitting at the helm of our Kadey Krogen and listening to the sound of the waves lapping against our boat, the salty sea air smells and the gentle rocking motion that has become so soothing.

I think she just likes marinas!

Oh! Here’s David – back again for more information. He and Cap are in the engine room. Cap is telling the tale once again and David is listening intently. I tell him, as he enters, that I am writing about him in my blog. “I don’t make any promises” he says to me. Yet, I don’t get discouraged. He is British; he seems quite the gentleman – beautiful accent – excellent credentials. He has an Engineering degree and has been in the yachting business over 20 years and was Chief Designer at Camper and Nicholson – a very well known yard and a respected position. No one previously has guaranteed work and they all know we are moving on and cannot come back to complain. For now, we are putting our trust and faith in this man and his abilities as well as in the hands of the other Man - above.  

 

                   Some images of Basseterre, St Kitts - around town during our walk.

 

Am I at My Breaking Point?

Adventure - Schmadventure! - What the heck is happening with our once trusted trawler? Why oh why is our girl giving us this "O God-Just-Get-Me-Out-of-This-Crap" feeling? To answer that question, I have to explain the reason for my dilemma.....

Okay - so our trawler is...well....old - there I said it! (just don't call me old!)
She's a 1985 42' beauty and has been well cared for by her 3 previous owners. So well cared for that I really didn't need to change a thing on the interior, except a little paint in the pilothouse. And she came with all the "extras" that we wanted, too. She has a bow thruster, hydraulic stabilizers, flying bridge with bimini top, large aft deck space, newer appliances in the galley - propane stove, microwave and toaster oven and sub-zero fridge and freezer, She has two staterooms - one configured as an office with a "Pullman" berth above and a sofa doubles as a second berth, two heads (very important for ultimate privacy!) and a really comfortable master bed. We lived aboard for a year at the dock in Longboat Key Marina - only taking week-end hops now and then, because we were both working and stashing our money away for this big finale in our golden years. Cap was a Realtor with Michael Saunders in Sarasota, Florida and a damn good one - but that meant he was at his clients "beck and call" 24/7 - so not much cruising was done.

The huge trip bringing Partners down to Florida occurred in November of 2011 and our good friend John Buzilow (now referred to as First Officer John -FOJ) was the best crew we could ever have hoped to help us. Their trip has forged a lifelong bond between these two men, and Cap just reveres the man! The boat left Oriental NC and headed out into the Atlantic and down, around Key West and up the Gulf Coast over the course of 2 weeks, bad weather and - yes a breakdown. But all was well with engine and generator and the two men happily pulled into port at the Longboat Key Club Marina the day before Thanksgiving - exhausted and elated with the experience.

Moving forward to retirement for both of us - and selling all the rest of the excess "stuff" - and our cars - and casting off the dock lines for  "distant shores" - just like the great program we loved watching on the Travel and Wealth channels back in Sarasota. First stop Key West (see previous blog entries) - then up the east coast to Miami and one last good-bye to our beautiful youngest daughter, Georgina and her boyfriend David. By this time we needed refueling - so a truck came to the marina dock in Miami and we filled 'er up. - then cast off for the adventure and crossing the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas! All went well and we had lots of fun at fabulous ports - made great cruising friends and generally thought this retirement thing was the "best thing since sliced bread!"

water so clear you can see the stabilizers

But somewhere around Mayaguana we started finding excessive dirt and water in our fuel - and this caused our engine to stop mid ocean! As we attempted to polish the fuel (or rather Cap did) we thought we had the problem licked - but then the engine started quitting due to air in the fuel and it has happened so often - during so many voyages to the next port - that it all seems a blur right now. But essentially what happened was - we'd plan to leave a port - get going 6 or 12 hours and out of the blue - the engine would just come to a screeching halt! It happened in the daytime - it happened in the dark of night - it happened 10 minutes after we started cruising and it's happened now 24 hours after we started cruising this last time. We have had consults with the Lehman diesel engine company -American Diesel; we've talked with other cruisers; we've searched the internet; we've changed out all the Racor filters and o rings and seals numerous times; we've changed out numerous parts - including the secondary filter assembly and the lift pump; and we've had several workmen on the boat to see if they could fix it. We have spent quite a bit of money trying to diagnose this "problem" (that's too soft a word here - but I can't think of a better one right now!) and stayed in expensive marinas - all to no avail - she is still doing the same thing and it seems no one can figure out why.....

Try to put yourself in my shoes for a minute and maybe I can describe the sheer horror, panic and fear that I feel when the engine stops in the middle of a 6000 foot deep expanse of sea - with no land in sight - and out of cell phone range and often normal VHF range too. The seas in the Caribbean are often rough - even at their best. Usually 6' seas are light! Usually it's more like 10-12' swells and sometimes they are close together and often there is a 20-25 kt wind adding a "chop" to the top of the wave. When our boat stops there is no momentum to break these waves force and our boat immediately starts to rock side to side - building until it feels like it will not right itself and we will sink - everything in the boat is going to crash and break. Glasses, alcohol bottles and dishes clatter. Furniture slides and topples over. The dinghy slams and rocks - even though it's strapped down tight. I hear every noise and feel all the thudding and thumping and worry myself sick - "What will happen to us?" I can hear every creak and groan from our boats joists and watch as plaster crumbles from an interior wall. I can't even stay still on my seat without holding on to the handrails on the ceiling - let alone walk to the loo during one of these episodes. I have a huge pressure on top of my head and my breathing is rapid - my throat becomes dry. I'm getting nauseated and sweaty- I can't think. If I think I may cry - or panic out loud. One time I tried to help Cap, and the back and forth crashing motion of the boat tossed me into the floor opening to the engine room. I can't believe I didn't break my leg - but luckily only ended up with huge bruises all down my side and enough agita and anxiety to cause an immediate heart attack - I was sure. Cap too, has had his share of injury from all this. I try to be calm - Cap is - although I know that he is at his wit's end too. Then Cap gets the air out and I restart the engine and turn on the auto-pilot. Cap is dripping with sweat and blood as he returns to the helm. We don't relax - because we know that it will happen again - any minute now......

We've developed a system to cope with this. I have every item padded with towels, bubble wrap, sock on bottles; loose items in boxes. We use non-skid everywhere. We tie up the aft deck chairs and our Magma Grill, We have become expert at things we don't want to be expert at. We want someone to finally say "Oh yes! Air in the fuel? That's because.... Easy fix old chap - just fork over the dough." ...But it doesn't happen, and we are left to wonder - who can help us? What will we have to do to get the help we need? We're a long way from the place we used to call home - where we know there are experts that may be better at diagnosing these things. So we talk and discuss the problem endlessly with each other and arrive at the decision that if we can't rely on the safety of the boat at sea - we won't be able to continue this journey. We are at the breaking point.

Dawn at St Eustatia

Partners must like Marinas!

We are just passing St Eustatia Island - it is dawn and has been a full 24 hours of non-stop cruising. We think - we hope - but are afraid to voice it - lest we jinx ourselves - that Shadow -  our mechanic from  the Bitter End Yacht Club in Virgin Gorda - has fixed our engine. I am just contemplating making some breakfast....when...ca-clunk!... she stops! We are four hours from St Kitts - and Cap sits in 110 degree engine room and continuously restarts the engine to get us to the safety of yet another marina - Port Zante in Basseterre. I look at the chart book for information - Cap has already checked on Active Captain. Our chart book recommends a man in St Kitts called David that is very good. Our hopes are raised that we may find someone that can help us carry on with this dream we have had for more than ten years. We want to continue - we want to do what needs to be done. We are buoyant once again with hope...... maybe we have not quite reached that breaking point....maybe this time, this port, this man................

Virgin Gorda, Virgin Atlantic, Fat Virgin… and Virgin Cruisers?

I have titled this “Virgin Cruisers”, because, although we are on our fourth trawler and between us both, have traveled the waters of Florida’s Gulf Coast, the East Coast and the English Channel and French coastlines – we have never ventured this far – or cruised for this extended period of time. And although we have enjoyed every nautical mile and every exotic island along our route - we are truly “Virgins” in our zeal for these beautiful Virgin Islands – Spanish, British and US! We are also virgins at the navigating of these islands – and so are very careful and respectful of the tricky waters – with deceptive depths due to water so clear, and reef and rocky prominences scattered about as well as the famous Trade Winds that can be both delightful and cooling natural “air conditioning” - or can kick up a strong wave chop and create periodic squalls at any turn.

Yes – we do have a healthy respect for the sea – but we also have great electronics and resources to teach us about the areas and anchorages as we travel along and this has helped us to enjoy our travels without getting into the danger that we know is possible – so far! As I’ve said before, we subscribe to Chris Parker’s weather service, as well as weather grib files and numerous other computer sites detailing weather, wind, waves, traversing anchorages and locations of current security alerts. There is much out there – if you can get internet – which we can’t always do – so we have the HF SSB radio for those other times.

The Virgin Islands are just fantastic! They are the quintessential cruising ground for sailors and cruisers alike, as the winds are terrific, and the islands are in close proximity to one another – making for short hops and beautiful sights along the way. Nowhere else have we seen such a concentrated collection of rental yachts and catamarans – with the cats being the most popular choice by far! Cap and I have watched these tenants storm into an anchorage at a speed we are not used to, and it can be quite the hilarious sight watching them try to pick up a mooring ball! As much as they are enjoying the cruising life – even for a week or two – I am amazed at their spunk – which can cover a myriad of catastrophes due to lack of experience! Then they all load up in the dinghy and get to the bar! Getting to know these people is not the same as befriending fulltime cruisers and we are looking forward to catching up with our full-time cruising friends.

 I can imagine us returning here after hurricane season - when we have the luxury of time - to slowly meander around and delight in exploring more of these beautiful anchorages and moorings. For now- we have been on a mooring at Bitter End Yacht Club for a week – waiting for that “weather window” to take us across Anegada Passage (7000 feet deep water – open expanse) and like the Mona Passage it can be tricky if the weather is not good. Unfortunately we won’t be stopping at Anegada or some of the other islands along the way to Trinidad, as the weather and some boat repairs have delayed our passage making south, and we are now running short of time to complete the journey.
But this area has supplied us with many different locals to visit and explore – from BEYC with its 75 acre complex and multiple restaurants and bars, to Saba Rock – a small rocky outcrop having a nice bar, restaurant and hotel complex - and it is very posh and quite busy – even in the “off season”. Biras Creek resort is also here and is very beautiful and the famous “Fat Virgin Café” is right around the corner from us and is really neat! They have recently completed a huge Super Yacht Club – YCCS - boasting a fabulous huge dock space catering to an abundance of Super Yachts, and a gorgeous complex – the buildings are beautiful! And then there’s Necker Island and Mosquito Island – both being privately owned by Sir Richard Branson – British entrepreneur and owner of – among many other companies -Virgin Records and Virgin
Atlantic Airways and Virgin Galactic! Our daughter Bryony once worked for Branson and has met him personally, as he believes in being involved in the day to day running of his businesses to some extent. Sir Richard (not Cap) was in residence at Necker Island when we arrived at Bitter End, as he was hosting a summit for ecological protection of the Caribbean called “Caribbean Challenge”.  We hoped to get a glance or chance meeting with this magnanimous entrepreneur, but alas – it was only to occur in our minds! We did get to be docked right next to his Mega-Cat – 105 foot catamaran called “Necker Belle” at the Bitter End – but still did not see the elusive Sir Branson…
When our weather window finally arrived – it was not a perfect one – but we decided to suffer some rough seas and winds so that we could continue down island towards our summer home –Trinidad. After Cap and I secured all the “stuff” and prepared her to make way, we slipped our mooring lines and motored out towards the red and green markers showing the inlet. Well – that’s as far as we got when Stonewall Jackson quit! It seems we still are getting air in the engine after all the work Cap has done at an attempted “fix”. In the course of thirty minutes – the engine quit four times and with our heads hung down, we limped back to a mooring ball and hooked back up. We planned on getting some more parts sent from Lehman to us so Cap could troubleshoot the problem and proceeded to wait for their arrival.

We carried on having a great time exploring our surroundings in the North Sound of Virgin Gorda, and were having heaps of fun traveling to Gun Creek, finding a larger grocery store with better provisions, going to Leverick Bay to see the Annual Poker Run, meeting and having drinks with some wonderful residents who helped put it on; taking walks and hikes around the area; going to Saba Rock for dinner – and just generally enjoying the cruising life. The parts had yet to arrive – but we couldn’t really control that – so we were okay waiting…..until our A/C quit one evening and upon inspection of “Genny” found her to be overheated – paint “melting”; all the antifreeze gone and a huge oil leak -  leaving a “pond” of black goo on our bilge floor! We both felt like crying and in the next few days to come we experienced a whole spectrum of emotions just thinking and communicating to the various service people about it. We took turns flying from rage to self-pity to depression to defeat and then to hope – and round again to rage and the whole track again! We were never on the same point of this invisible continuum at the same time – therefore when I was sad, Cap tried to cheer me up with a positive outlook and when he was sad and ready to call it all quits – I bolstered his spirits with gentle reasoning. And so it went, until finally we just became resigned to the facts – this is what’s happened – past tense – No crying over spilt milk now – we’re just going to get this resolved – no matter what it takes- no matter how long it takes. So here we are – waiting for Monday and all the workmen to arrive to give us a hand to get the old girl’s sea legs back and make our way for Trinidad as fast as we can……



The Bitter End Yacht Club