Monday morning brings a calm day with little wind or waves.
The night had been one like I had imagined the Bahamas to be –flat calm and
quiet and we both had a good night’s sleep- finally! We raised our anchor at
0630 and set sail for Warderick Wells – one of the many Islands of the Exuma
Cays Land and Sea Park.
The Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park was founded and is
administered by the Bahamas National Trust and it extends 22 miles long by 8
miles wide and includes several of the Exuma Cays in its boundary – many of
them private. The park has mooring balls to attach to – so as not to disturb
the delicate ecosystem in the park- which they are working to replenish. This
was the first time we had the opportunity of using a mooring ball – rather than
hanging the anchor or docking at a marina. A new challenge! “What will I do?” I
ask Cap. But he reassures me all will work out when we reach it. And it did! It
was a piece of cake to pick up that line on the ball and hook our line to it.
Of course, nothing could go wrong here – it’s Paradise!
We hailed the Park Ranger at 0800 – with no response.
Apparently being a Park Ranger is like being a Bank Teller – great hours! The
Ranger is available at 900 – and since we had not called ahead the day before
(like s/v Narsiion) I was anxious that we needed to call first thing to secure
a mooring. Narsiion had explained to us that there are only so many moorings
and they et taken – They were 7th on the list. Yikes! And at 0900
Cap hailed the office…. And couldn’t get through! There were masses of people
hailing the ranger – one after another – he never even heard us! Then I
realized these were all people clearing out – they go first. Then the ranger
takes the names of the vessels coming in – along with length and draft of the
vessel and then assigns them a mooring. So after a few more calls to the Ranger
– he acknowledged us and said “copy” (wait list). Then he said we could have
mooring 1, 2, or 3 in the North end and after a little back and forth by the
Cap – we ended up with mooring #6 – in a bit more protected area from the
projected wind pattern for the next few days. Perfect!
On our approach to Warderick Wells we could see the water
change from that deep clear blue to that electric turquoise. It was visually
stunning! We quickly started learning to “read” this water- something that
takes some mastering. What looks like 3 feet is actually 12 feet! The water is
so clear and translucent it seems shallow compared to the water on the Gulf
Coast. The effect is fantastic! We saw all variations of turquoise –from deep
blue to light green – depending on depths and rocky or grassy bottoms. Cap took
her off the Auto-Pilot and steered her into the entrance to the Mooring Field.
It was really exciting!
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| Partners - on right - 2nd in |
I was at the ready with our boat hook and it was easy to
lift it up and attach our line. Yeah! We settled into our spot and then
conquered the dinghy. I wasn’t as fearful, as the weather and water was
beautiful with little wind – what could go wrong with those conditions? -The
answer? - Nothing! Another easy job and down she went – how it should be every
time – but for one reason or another is not. And actually, getting the dinghy back up is
the hardest job. We still have some work to do on that rig. Maybe when we get
to the DR or Puerto Rico we will get a second hoist to replace the hand
maneuvering winch we now have.
After we tied off the dinghy to our aft deck, we sat down
and had a “celebratory” beer and a deep breath – and a good look around at this
beautiful anchorage in Paradise. It is phenomenal! Words cannot describe the
beauty. Think of every brochure or professional photograph of the Bahamas or
Caribbean you’ve ever seen – and this is even better!
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| Warderick Wells Ranger Station |
So after we said a prayer of thanks for such beauty and
fortune of nature, we boarded our dinghy and took off for the Park Ranger’s
office. We docked the dinghy at his dock and walked up the steps of the cypress
stilt house. Out front – encased in glass – was the skeleton of a pilot whale –
killed when it mysteriously got beached in 2010. Inside was the man – Andrew –
who runs the whole show. He is young – 30’s and handsome. There are things to
purchase all around and the funds go to maintaining this beautiful park. They
have a lending library and a super collection of DVD’s to rent for $2/ night,
as well as T shirts, clothing, coffee mugs and brick-a-brac. We sign up for the mooring and tell Andrew we
expect to be here a few days. There is a mail box to deposit your money or DVD
when you leave. Andrew gave us the information and there was a trail map of all
the trails one can walk on the island. Since this is a Park – there is no
fishing or taking of any sea or plant life. They are trying to replenish the
ecosystem, and there are many birds, and small lizards to see, as well as the
Hutia – indigenous to the island – it is like a small rabbit or gerbil and is
nocturnal.
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| A Bridge on one of the hiking paths |
After an afternoon exploring the island by dinghy we
returned to Partners in time to see the three sailboats we had left behind in
Allen’s Cay, arrive together here – just like the Nina, the Pinta and the Santa
Maria! And – as we are finding out – we make
friends and we leave friends for our next port – but many of them we see again –
along the way… Maybe we will see them
again – in Staniel Cay……
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